You thread chicken that has sat in lemon, oregano, and oil, then grill it until the edges char and the inside stays juicy. The pita is warm, the tzatziki cold against the onion. Wrapped, it is street food; off the skewer it is a perfectly serious dinner.
Chicken souvlaki is what the grill is doing on every mainland corner now — cubes on a stick, the word itself the skewer. Gyro is a different machine. This is meat, fire, bread, and the marinade that makes the bird taste of the taverna.
Do not pack the cubes too tightly or they will steam. The grill should be very hot, almost smoking. Onion, tomato, tzatziki, a last squeeze of lemon. Eat it while the pita is still warm.
Method
- 01
Toss the chicken cubes with the olive oil, lemon juice, crushed garlic, oregano, paprika, salt, and pepper, turning them until every surface is coated and glossy. Cover the bowl and let it marinate at least 1 hour, or overnight in the refrigerator if you have the time — the lemon and oregano need that long to work their way in. Thighs will stay juicier than breast; don't swap them unless you must, and if you do, watch the grill like a hawk.
- 02
Thread the chicken onto skewers, leaving a little space between the cubes — if you pack them tightly they'll steam instead of char, and char is the whole point. If you're using wooden skewers, soak them first so they don't burn. Heat a grill or a grill pan until it is very hot, almost smoking — you should hesitate to hold your hand over it, because that heat is what gives you the crust.
- 03
Grill the souvlaki, turning as the edges take on a deep char, until the chicken is just cooked through, 8 to 10 minutes. You want bronzed, slightly crisp corners and a juicy interior — not gray, not dry — so don't poke and fuss; let the grill do the work. Cut into a cube if you are unsure; the juices should run clear. For the last minute, throw the pitas on to warm and take a few stripes. Work quickly; everything wants to arrive hot together.
- 04
Tuck the meat into the warm pitas with a tangle of onion, a few slices of tomato, a generous spoon of cold tzatziki, and a last squeeze of lemon. Wrapped, it is street food; off the skewer, standing up at the counter, it is a perfectly serious dinner. Either way, eat it while the pita is still warm and the tzatziki is still cold against the chicken. That contrast is the dish.
