You get a heap of shrimp, squid and little fish on a sheet of paper, still hissing, lemon wedged beside. Flour is a whisper; the oil has done the rest. Salt while it shines, and eat standing if you can — burning your fingers is part of the bargain.
The Adriatic coast fries whatever the boats brought in, from Venice down through the Marche and Abruzzo. Liguria and Naples keep their own versions. The point is mixed, small and hot, not a single grand fish.
Pat everything dry or the oil will sulk. Fry in batches at a roar. It dies on a plate in a dining room.
Method
- 01
Pat every piece of seafood fiercely dry with a towel — if it is wet, the oil will sulk and spit and you will get steam instead of a crust. Season lightly with salt; the final salting comes after frying, so don't overdo it now. Have the squid, shrimp, and little fish all ready beside the stove. Once the oil is hot, you will not have time to fuss.
- 02
Put the flour in a wide bowl and toss the seafood through it a handful at a time, then shake off every bit of excess. You want a whisper of flour, not a batter — the oil does the rest. Work in small batches so nothing sits in the flour getting soggy. A sieve is your friend here; give each handful a good shake.
- 03
Heat the oil to 350°F, until a pinch of flour sizzles on contact. Fry in small batches so the temperature stays at a roar — crowded oil goes greasy. A minute or two is all you need; the pieces should be just gold, not brown, and still tender inside. Listen for the hiss to quiet; that's your cue to lift them out.
- 04
Lift the seafood onto paper and salt it the instant it comes out, while the surface is still shining and can take the crystals. Heap it on a sheet of paper with lemon wedges beside, and eat standing if you can — burning your fingers is part of the bargain. It dies on a dining-room plate. Don't wait for the last batch to finish before you start.
