You braise veal shanks until the meat yields at a fork, the marrow in the bone still glossy. Then you scatter gremolata over the top — lemon, garlic, parsley — and eat the marrow first, with a small spoon. That hole in the bone is the whole point. Saffron rice beside it.
Ossobuco — bone with a hole — is Milan's winter dish, white wine and tomato in the braise. Gremolata is not a garnish; it is the last bright argument of the plate.
Tie the shanks so they hold their shape. Braise, covered, until a fork meets almost no resistance. Serve with risotto alla Milanese.
Method
- 01
Tie each veal shank around its middle with kitchen string so it holds its shape in the braise — otherwise the meat will slump off the bone. Dust the cut faces lightly with flour, then brown them in the butter and oil until they are deep gold on both sides. Don't rush this; the crust is flavor you cannot add later. Set the shanks aside and keep the fat in the pan.
- 02
In the same pan, sweat the diced onion, carrot, and celery in the remaining fat until they soften and smell sweet. Pour in the wine and scrape up all the gold stuck to the bottom — that is the beginning of your sauce. Add the tomatoes and stock, then nestle the shanks back in so the liquid comes about two-thirds of the way up. Season with salt and pepper.
- 03
Cover the pan and slide it into a 325°F oven. Let it braise quietly for about two hours, until a fork meets almost no resistance and the marrow in the bone is still glossy. Check once or twice and add a splash of stock if the sauce looks dry. The kitchen will smell of wine and veal; that is how you know it's working.
- 04
While the veal rests a moment, chop together the lemon zest, garlic, and parsley — this is gremolata, and it is not a garnish but the last bright argument of the dish. Scatter it over the shanks as they go to the table. Serve with risotto alla Milanese, and eat the marrow first, with a small spoon. That hole in the bone is the whole point.
