Chapter II · Spain

Gambas al ajillo

Garlic shrimp

18 min·prep 10 / cook 8Serves 4easyAppetizer · Andalusia

A cazuela arrives still sputtering — oil, sliced garlic, prawns — and that is what you came for. The garlic should be pale gold, the chile already in the oil. The bread is not a garnish; it is how you finish the dish.

The tapa is Andalusian in spirit and now the property of every bar with a terracotta pan. Prawns, a flood of olive oil, garlic cut into coins, a dried guindilla — nothing more.

Keep the heat high enough that the garlic colours without burning, and take the prawns out the moment they turn opaque. Carry it still bubbling. A Manzanilla from Sanlúcar is the glass: bone-dry, slightly saline, cut for this oil. Mop. Do not waste what remains.

Method

  1. 01

    Pat the shrimp thoroughly dry with paper towels — any moisture will make them steam rather than sizzle — and season them lightly with salt. Have everything else at your elbow: sliced garlic, crumbled chiles, brandy, parsley. This dish cooks in minutes, and you will not have time to hunt for a spoon once the oil is hot. Tails stay on; they're how you pick them up.

  2. 02

    Warm the oil in a cazuela or small heavy skillet until it shimmers and a scrap of garlic just begins to fizz. Add the garlic and chile and cook until the garlic is pale gold, about 1 minute — watch it like a hawk, because gold becomes brown in a blink, and brown garlic is bitter. The chile should already be scenting the oil. That's the aroma you want riding to the table.

  3. 03

    Tip in the shrimp and toss them over high heat until they just turn opaque, 2 to 3 minutes; they will curl and blush, and that is your cue to stop. Splash in the brandy and let it leap up — a little drama is part of the dish. The oil should be sputtering, the garlic still pale. Do not walk away.

  4. 04

    Scatter the parsley over the cazuela and carry the whole thing to the table still bubbling; the sound is half the pleasure. Set out crusty bread at once — it is not a garnish, it is how you finish the dish. Mop every last bit of that garlic oil. A cold Manzanilla beside it, and you are doing this properly.

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