Chapter V · Greece

Χωριάτικη σαλάτα

Village salad

15 min·prep 15 / cook 0Serves 4easyAppetizer · Greece

You assemble ripe tomatoes, cucumber, onion, olives, and a slab of feta that sits on top like a roof, dressed only in oil and oregano. This is not a tossed salad. The juices that collect at the bottom of the bowl are the point; bread is how you finish them.

Horiatiki means village salad — the summer plate of the Greek table. There is no lettuce. There is no balsamic. The feta is not crumbled, not cubed, not mixed in. It is a piece of cheese, oregano-dusted, waiting for your fork.

Salt the tomatoes so they weep. Use oil you would eat with a spoon. Bring it to the table at once; the feta will weep if it sits. The wine is whatever red is already open, slightly cool.

Method

  1. 01

    This is not a tossed salad, so don't reach for a big bowl and a pair of tongs. Arrange the tomato wedges, cucumber half-moons, pepper rings, and onion in a shallow serving bowl, where they can sit in their own company. Season the vegetables lightly with salt — especially the tomatoes, which need it to weep their juices. Those juices collecting at the bottom are the point of the whole plate.

  2. 02

    Scatter the Kalamata olives over the vegetables, then lay the feta on top in a single slab — it is not crumbled, not cubed, not mixed in. It sits there like a roof, waiting to be broken with a fork at the table. Resist every instinct to toss or crumble: the architecture of this salad is the dish, and the cheese is the last thing you touch.

  3. 03

    Dust everything — the vegetables, the olives, and especially the feta — with the dried Greek oregano, rubbing it between your palms as you go to wake the perfume. Pour over the olive oil in a generous ribbon; use oil you would eat with a spoon. Add the vinegar last, just a spoonful — there is no balsamic here, no lettuce, nothing to hide behind. Taste a tomato, and add a pinch more salt if it needs it.

  4. 04

    Bring it to the table at once — this salad does not improve by waiting, and the feta will weep if it sits. Set a loaf of bread beside the bowl for the juices at the bottom; that last swipe is half the meal. There is no lettuce and no balsamic — just a fork, a piece of bread, and whatever red is already open, slightly cool.

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