Chapter I · Portugal

Arroz de pato

Duck rice

2 hr·prep 30 / cook 90Serves 6mediumMain · Portugal

You bring this to the table in the dish it baked in, still muttering: duck shredded into rice that has drunk the stock, a lid of chouriço crisped on top. A feast dish. Monday food, too, if you have a bird. A spoon through that sausage lid is one of the better moments in a Portuguese kitchen.

Arroz de pato is northern at heart — Braga claims it, Minho cooks it — but it has travelled the whole country as Sunday rice. The duck gives the stock; Carolino rice drinks it; the sausage on top is smoke and a crust.

Shred the meat off the bone. Cook the rice shy of done, then bake until the chouriço crisps. Don't pack it down; the rice needs a little air.

Method

  1. 01

    Put the duck in a pot with the onion, bay leaf, and white wine, cover with water, and simmer until the meat leaves the bone — about an hour, perhaps more. Lift out the bird, strain the stock, and skim off the fat; you want a clear, duck-scented liquor. Shred the meat off the bone, discarding skin if it is flabby. Keep the meat moist under a little of the stock.

  2. 02

    Measure the skimmed stock and bring it to a simmer. Stir in the Carolino rice and cook until it is just shy of done — still a little chalky at the center, the grains plump but not bursting; it will finish in the oven. Season with salt, pepper, and a strip of orange zest if you have it. The rice should taste of duck already.

  3. 03

    Fold the shredded duck and some of the sliced chouriço into the rice, together with a handful of parsley. Turn the mixture into a gratin dish and cover the top with the remaining chouriço, overlapping the slices so they make a lid. Don't pack it down; the rice needs a little air. It should come to the table in the dish it bakes in.

  4. 04

    Bake at 400°F until the chouriço on top has crisped and the edges of the rice have taken a little color, about 20 minutes. You should hear it muttering when you take it from the oven. Rest 5 minutes, then serve from the dish. A spoon through the sausage lid into the duck rice is one of the better moments in a Portuguese kitchen.

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