Chapter I · Portugal

Pão com chouriço

Chouriço bread

50 min·prep 25 / cook 25Serves 4mediumAppetizer · Portugal

You tear this loaf with your hands: bread that has swallowed sliced chouriço, every piece a negotiation between crumb and smoke, the fat staining the interior paprika-red. Eat it warm, when the sausage is still a smell as much as a taste. A knife is too fussy.

This is how bakeries and fairs make smoked sausage travel — romarias, motorway stops, torn in the car. Chouriço is paprika, garlic, the pig of the interior. The loaf is not a sandwich. It is one thing.

Roll the sausage into the dough so the slices spiral. Bake hot, until the crust is deep and the fat has basted the crumb from within. A modest red from the Dão if you are sitting down.

Method

  1. 01

    Stir the yeast into the water until it looks creamy, then add the flour, salt, and olive oil. Knead until the dough is smooth and a little tacky — about 8 minutes by hand, less in a mixer. Cover the bowl and let it rise in a warm corner for 1 hour, until it has doubled and smells faintly of bread. Don't rush this; the yeast is doing the work you cannot.

  2. 02

    Punch the dough down and pat it into a rectangle on a lightly floured board. Lay the sliced chouriço over the surface in a single layer, leaving a small border. Roll it up tightly, like a jelly roll, so the sausage spirals through the loaf, and set it seam-side down on a baking tray. Pinch the ends closed so the fat stays inside.

  3. 03

    Cover the loaf loosely and let it proof 30 minutes, until it looks puffy and a finger dent springs back slowly. Slash the top with a sharp knife, one long cut or a few diagonals — just enough to let steam out. Don't cut so deep you expose the sausage; you want the fat to baste the crumb from within. Heat the oven now, so it is truly hot when the bread goes in.

  4. 04

    Bake at 425°F until the crust is a deep brown and the loaf sounds hollow when you tap the bottom, about 25 minutes. You should see paprika-stained fat bubbling at the slashes. Cool just enough to handle, then tear it — a knife is too fussy. Eat it warm, when the smoke is still a smell as much as a taste.

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